IAM SWIMMING upstream without a paddle. Yes, other humans are in the Hellespont with me, but they’re nowhere near, and yes, there are safety boats just in case, but that would be cheating. Stroke after stroke it’s just me in the sea, using arms and legs and abs (oh, that critical core) to cut through the current toward the other shore. Swimming is the ultimate on-your-own activity. Everyone else gets stuff to make it easier: skis, skates, bats, wheels, sticks, gloves, racquets, slick shoes. Even teammates to help reach the goal. Not us. An equipment malfunction in swimming means some part of your body has broken down. My favorite passage from an early Greek poem about this crossing describes Leander this way: “Himself the crew, the cargo and the ship.” Translation: no flippers, no noodles, no rope lines to hang on to. You do it yourself, as I am right now, and the way you do it in swimming is called strokes.
“Lynn, relax your shoulders! Lynn, stretch even further with those lovely long arms!” “Lynn, get your head deeper into the water, like this!” Fiona Southwell, the eternally upbeat, utterly tireless British Channel swimmer, gave me some pointers the day before this event, at a beachside clinic designed to make the waters of the Hellespont less terrifying. For half an hour I was directed to swim all the way out to one buoy and then circle back, letting my body get used to the currents and the surprisingly salty taste. The orientation worked: I am comfortable now in this foreign sea, reaching for the other side with previously untapped energy. But the other side is so far away! To get there, I’m swimming freestyle, the better to pierce the oncoming tide. Every now and then I slide into a breaststroke, my rest stroke, to catch my breath and sight the route. Am I going in the right direction? Has the course zigged while I zagged? How did Byron find the Asian shore two hundred years ago without the radio tower that I’m locked onto? Once in a while I flip over onto my back for a complete change of pace—to inhale at will, to stretch my shoulders, to gaze at the perfect blue sky and the European hills I’ve left behind. It’s also a chance to dream. How cool is it to swim from Europe to Asia? How cool am I? Could I do this twice a day and make passionate love in between?

It takes more than just physics and will power to move through a medium some eight hundred times denser than air—where you are horizontal, where you need to move all four limbs at once in an environment without gravity (which means nothing to stand on or push off against), and where you can’t always breathe when you want to. It is “the most difficult art there is,” pronounced Ralph Thomas, an accomplished swimmer so convinced of its value to humankind, he catalogued every known book in print about it at the end of the nineteenth century. “To swim badly, as to do anything badly, is perfectly easy,” he went on. “But to move about, on or under the water with ease and without apparent effort, quietly and without splashing, requires much diligent practice.” And while the goal may be to slip through liquid as fluently as a fish, the modern development of human swimming strokes actually owes more to the frog, the dog, the dolphin, and the butterfly.


For the latter part of his argument, I defer to my hero, suffrage leader Susan B. Anthony, who as far as I know never swam a day in her life but still understood the urgency of confronting it, like everything else, on its home territory: “Women can’t swim as a rule,” she said in 1883, referring less to the breaststroke or any other stroke than to women’s second-class status in society, “and never will be able to do so—unless thrown into the water to learn the art.”

Which didn’t stop a host of enterprising inventors from dreaming up some eccentric, if not tortuous, contraptions to save would-be swimmers from the inconvenience of getting wet. They ranged from simple chest slings to hoist the pupil into midair (the better to move his arms and legs around), to complicated platforms with jointed limb rests at the corners, and a rubber air bag supported by a metal framework devised by a Scotsman named John S. Levett. His invention, wrote a (legitimate) swim instructor, “had its recommendations, but as poor Levett was himself drowned a year later on, when exhibiting the apparatus in the sea at Blackpool, no one took any further interest.” Understandably so.
Other inventors ginned up gadgets to aid the already waterborne: corks strung together in belts; gloves and boots with duck-like webbing that spread out like an umbrella; flexible tails to support the tailless.
Fortunately, swim instruction soon focused on the stroke, not the stroke aid. And the breaststroke itself changed: instead of executing arms and legs together, it turned out that you got further ahead by staggering the motions. And putting your face in the water allowed for a nice, long, energy-saving glide. In that way, the breaststroke remained “the ordinary and most straightforward style of swimming,” someone proclaimed. It is “and will always be, the most popular.”
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